Talkers and listeners

April 9, 2025

Today was an odd day, a bit of a departure from the routine of wake up/hike/settle in that I’ve been starting to get used to. My first stop was the ATC headquarters, where I picked up the box I’d left for myself, as well as some med supplies that the fam had sent when I first got injured. Dave, the volunteer I’d met before heading out, was there, so I got to share all the adventures I’d had on the road so far, and I found a note for me on the big chalkboard in the hikers’ lounge!

Thanks, Kathi!

I haven’t been hungry much in this first week, so I didn’t need the resupply I’d brought for myself. I took a few things, but repacked a fair bit into the box; I chose a hostel at the MD/PA border, addressed it to myself, and walked down the street to the post office to mail it forward. I found an ATM, getting some cash to replace my shuttle expenses, and looked at my prospects. Headquarters hadn’t opened until mid morning, and it was already lunchtime. I did want to get lunch here in town, too, and Ralph had warned me that tonight’s low temps were going to go below freezing. Another volunteer, trail name Samurai Blue, suggested that I walk the 3-mile towpath that is the AT in West Virginia, grab lunch at one of the restaurants I’d pass on the way, and stay at a hostel on the MD side after I cross the Potomac. That sounded good to me, and by dinner time I had found my way to the Cross Trails Hostel.

Crossing the Potomac. A beautiful day, but so windy that I had to hold on to my hat

The towpath was rail-trail like in its simplicity, with beautiful views, and the hostel hosts, Peak Freak and Porter, were helpful and welcoming. I met Homespun and Doogie, two hostel owners in their own right from Maine traveling in their car with their dog, Kevin. I also met Passin’ Thru, who had been laid up with and injury for the last several weeks and was looking to start his hike again tomorrow.  A few others drifted in as evening went on to get indoors before the big freeze. One, oddly enough, was Rusty, who had been going south when I met him a few days ago. Looks like he’s traveling with Homespun and Doogie now.

I’m finding that I can divide the hikers I meet into two basic groups: talkers and listeners. Passin’ Thru, while a perfectly decent fellow, feels like a classic talker. He gave me info about his injury, his previous hiking, his military service, the people he’s met (which include a couple of hikers I met my first night out, who were also big talkers and a bit intimidating; I’ve actually heard more about the two guys and their dog through word of mouth than I’ve heard about or from anyone else so far), all the shelters he’s stayed at, advice he has, gear he’s bought, and more. There’s nothing wrong with any of it, but it’s often a lot, a quick, presumed shorthand of intimacy that sometimes leaves me a little overwhelmed. Homespun asked me questions. Doogie didn’t say much at all, but chimed in occasionally when referenced. I’m not sure which I am just yet, but I aspire to be a listener.